Coat construction



Oct. 11, 1938. HQ GEMIGNANI I I 2,133,193

COAT CONSTRUCTION Filed May 19, 1938 mwvm g Patented Oct. 11, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2 Claims.

This invention relates generally to improvements in coat construction; and more particularly, to an expansible bellows-like construction connection in the armhole connection between the sleeves and the body of a coat.

The main object of the invention is to provide at the crotch of the sleeve and body of the coat an expansible construction which will allow the necessary fullness and freedom of movement for 1 the arms of the wearer whenever required, and yet be of such character as to preserve accuracy of fit and symmetry of appearance during the ordinary wear of the garment. Bellows pleats, inserts and other means used heretofore to pro- 15 vide for such freedom of arm movement, inevitably alter the character of the design and finished appearance of the coat, since they are outwardly visible, and therefore limited for use in sports wear.

20 A suitable embodiment of the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing, wherein the improvement is shown as incorporated as a crescent-shaped fold in the body of the coat where it connects with the under section or crotch of the 25 sleeve.

In the drawing:

Figure 1 is a fragmentary rear elevation of a coat embodying this invention, with the sleeve raised to show the operation of the improved so connection between the sleeves and the body of the coat;

Figure 2 is a fragmentary development of that portion of the body of a coat cut out to receive the end of the sleeve, and showing the body of 35 the coat as entirely laid out;

Figure 3 is a similar view of the parts shown in Figure 2, but with the crescent-shaped fold formed in the crotch thereof and in position to be sewn to the sleeve of a coat;

40 Figure 4 is a fragmentary section showing the method of attaching the sleeve of a coat to the crescent-shaped fold aforesaid, and also the lining construction as employed in this coat; and

Figure 5 is a fragmentary development of the 5 coat and sleeve linings at crotch parts thereof.

Referring to Figure 1 of the drawing, the reference numerals 5, 6 and 1 designate, respectively, the back and sleeves of a coat constructed in accordance with the present invention. The

50 crescent-shaped folds 8 and 9 are formed on those parts of the coat connected to the sleeves in the crotches between the sleeves and the coat. These folds are formed in such manner as to eliminate the pull between the elbows and shoulders of the 55 coat and to prevent the back from riding up when the arms'are raised substantially as shown in Figure 1. The joints in the crotch between the sleeve and body of the coat are somewhat elastic. This elasticity in the joint and freedom of movement on thebody of the wearer is secured by 5 forming the crotch between sleeve and coat in the manner indicated in Figures 2, 3 and 4 of the drawing.

Figure 2 of the drawing shows front, back and side portions III, II and I2 of the coat united in 10 the usual manner to form one of the shoulder portions of the coat body. Theupper'end of this portion is first out along the curved outline I3 to form one armhole- The dotted curved line H merging with the curved line l3 between the points l5 and I6 would indicate the seam edge of the armhole line of a coat of standard construction, and in the present instance, indicates the crease formed by the crescent-shaped expansible fold 9 used to form, the crotch of the coat.

In the finished coat the curved parts l3 above the points l5 and I6 appear as a stitched seam in continuation of a crease l4 formed in the body of the coat. When the arms are in normal position this crease and the line of stitching give the same appearance to the improved coat as is present in a coat of conventional construction.

Figure 3 of the drawing illustrates the parts shown in Figure 2 with the crescent-shaped fold 9 formed in the crotch of the armhole. In this final form of the coat body, the upper parts of the coat body between the points l5 and [6 have been folded around the crease line l4 and have been pressed flat against the body part of the coat.

It will be observed that the part of the curve I3 lying between the points l5 and I 6 is considerably stretched during the operation of folding around the crease line I4. This folding and stretching is effected by dampening the cloth adjacent the'fold and ironing the crescent-like section 9 about the 40 crease line I4 while maintaining the other parts of the armhole substantially in the position shown in Figure 2. In folding the crescent-like section 9 in this manner, the cloth along the line l3 between the points l5 and I6 becomes stretched to form the longer line or edge l3, while the cloth along the crease line [4 becomes somewhat compressed. After this operation, the crescentshaped part 9 is somewhat elastic in its lengthwise direction.

The sleeve 1 at its upper end is sewn in the usual manner to the coat body along the lines I3 above the points [5 and IS. The crotch part of the sleeve between the points l5 and I6 is sewn to the lower edge l3 of the crescent-shaped section 9. It will be understood, of course, that sumcient cloth will be allowed to permit the formation of the seams along the lines of stitching indicated on the drawing. This operation completes the construction of one sleeve element of the coat shown in Figure 1 of the drawing. Obviously, the other sleeve 6 will be similarly connected to the coat body.

The sleeve construction described not only provides for an elastic expansible connection at the sleeve crotches of a coat, but, by its formation, also eliminates the necessity of taping the body of the coat around the crotch in order to prevent stretching thereof. In fact, the tape in this construction must be omitted around the crotch part of the armhole where the expansible connection is made in order to present the elasticity or lengthwise strength of the crotch in a manner which distinguishes the present invention from everything preceding it.

By reserving the armhole at the crotch, the possibility of binding or pressure on the part of the seamed material against the bottom and rear of the arms is eliminated. Since the pit of the armhole in this construction is a crease instead of a stitched seam, the armhole maybe cut higher on the garment, thereby adding to the length of the back and sleeve section with consequent, added comfort to the wearer and without causing unsightly wrinkles.

The coat construction just described requires a corresponding modification of the lining. As shown in Figures 4 and 5, the body lining I! is cut out at the armhole to form a normal seam line l8 directly opposite the crease line H and the stitched continuations [3 thereof. Since the lining material is ordinarily non-stretchable, it is necessary to use a crescent-shaped insert l9 in the crotch connection between the body lining l1 and the sleeve lining 20. This insert l9 overlies the correspondingly crescent-shaped fold 9 between the body and sleeve of the coat proper, the armhole crotch of the lining being formed by a stitched seam instead of a crease.

What I claim is:

1. In a coat, a body portion cut to form an armhole and creased at the lower part of the armhole to form a crescent-shaped, outwardly directed fold integral with said body portion and with its widest part extending downwardly toward the back of said body portion, and a sleeve stitched to the free edge of said fold and to the curved edges of the armhole extending from the opposite ends of the crease formed by said fold.

2. In a coat, a body portion cut to form an armhole and creased at the lower part of the armhole to form a crescent-shaped, outwardly directed fold integral with said body portion and with its widest part extending downwardly toward the back of said body portion, and a sleeve stitched to the free edge of said fold and to the curved edges of the armhole extending from the opposite ends of the crease formed by said fold,

said crease forming a smooth continuation of "3b the stitched part of the seam between the sleeve and body portion and extending around the shoulder from said opposite ends.

HUGO GEMIGNANI. 

